I rise a little later than usual today but still find that I’m up and ready well before the hoteliers! I tread lightly so as not to disturb anyone and quietly open the restaurant door to find the CRF resting comfortably on the Berber carpet. I load the bike and figure out how to open the large, heavy steel doors and let myself out, pushing the Honda out into the street and closing up the restaurant I deposit my room key in front of the still sleeping receptionist, he doesn’t stir.

Just down the street I treat myself to a full tank of fuel and get in my way. Very soon I’m exiting the town and straight into one of the many Police checkpoints of the day.

All good here but I do promise to improve my knowledge of the French language, it would make life a bit easier for sure.

On the road it’s as predicted, I’ve done this road before some six years ago on a trip to Mali and it hasn’t changed much, long, long stretches of desolate, flat and barren desert with smatterings of occupation here and there. Some Berber camps, fishermen in their huts and the odd rock feature all surrounded by course rocky sand and more sand thrown in.

The big surprise for me are the almost billions of butterflies flying low across the road, they just kept coming for most of the day. I did try to avoid hitting them but it was impossible, if I missed one I would hit five more so I just had to keep on riding. There were so many and they all appeared to be heading from the coast inland. It must be some mass migration happening right now. I think they were tortoiseshell butterflies but I’m no expert?

I spot a single headlight heading my way it has to be a foreigner as no one uses their lights during the day here, they often flash to tell me to turn mine off! Sure enough a KTM690 blasts past heading North. We exchange the usual wave and I ride on, next thing I see a headlight fast approaching from behind, he blasts past and slowly reduces his speed, it’s the KTM and he has doubled back, he wants me to stop.

We pull onto the verge, I notice the German plate and a very jolly and tall ‘Christian from the Black Forest’ introduces himself. We chat for ages, he’s the same age as me, has three children like me and celebrated his 25th Wedding Anniversary this year, like me! And to top it all he has a KTM690 like me! ‘I don’t ride it much at home, I just don’t have the time’ ‘Same here’ I reply.

‘We are the same’ Christian declares! He was a lovely chap and has been riding around Dahkla for the last couple of weeks and now heading home

He produced a bottle of oil and oils his chain and mine! He say it’s normal motor oil and it’s the best here, ‘it’s self cleaning’ and sure enough there’s no sand stuck to his chain, I take on the good advice.

I notice he has a large split in his tyre and point it out, he doesn’t care and raises both hands as a gesture, what could go wrong he says and we laugh as he has a similar attitude to life as me. His wife gave him leave to do this trip, ‘like mine’ I exclaim!

We exchange good tidings for the respective journeys ahead and Christian turns on his heels and blasts of heading North, I have a smile in my heart, I like him.

Fuel is topped up at the next station and I have a couple of hours left to Dahkla. Less butterflies this time and a few spots of rain help keep the dust down. I arrive in Dahkla and ride past a bike shop. I double back and pull in.

I explained my problem with the ‘bougie chateau’ or plug cap and the work commences. The owner intimates that he needs the tank off so I strip the bike down once more, they locate a suitable rubber plug cap but we need to do some electrickery to make it all fit together, coil off and the trickery begins. I’m happy with the result and ask for the bill, once again I’m majorly surprised by the bill and gladly pay the man. I’m left with the bike in bits but I’m happy to reassemble the bike using my own tools.

When im done the younger chap who was helping asks if he can ride the bike, why not! So I finish putting it back together and give him the keys with a wagging finger to warn him to be careful, he rides off with the biggest smile you can imagine!

Next thing a policeman is gesturing to me about my Moto? What’s he on about? Turns out they pulled the young man and he’s been given a bit of a warning, he laughing and now it’s the policeman’s finger wagging at me! All in good humour I’m pleased to say and as I leave the young mechanic still has a beaming smile as he waves me off, I think I made his day, he helped make mine too!

The first hotel doesn’t look good for me so I check out another and manage to get a lovely two bedroom suite in a really rather nice hotel, I’m low on cash and have to find an ATM before I can pay the bill. Room sorted and it’s time for food.

Close by on the street I found a lovely little restaurant and peruse the offerings. I’m having mixed fish tagine and eagerly await the meal. Believe me it did not disappoint and I polished the lot off with an extra plate chilli sauce too.

Its getting late and I still need a shower, what was going to be a boring day turned itself around and I had a brilliant day, I’m really beginning to enjoy this trip, it’s turning into a right old adventure.